Primer: How Extra Virgin Olive Oil Differs from Other Types of Olive Oil
What is extra virgin olive oil? And how does it differ from
other grades of olive oil, like pure or light? It’s a question we hear a
lot. And I’ll try to clear it up.

It’s not surprising there is so much confusion surrounding
extra virgin olive oil – and olive oil generally. A recent
survey
by the Olive Center at the Davis campus of the University of California
found that 55 percent of consumers surveyed believed they understood
the meaning of different olive oil grades – but no more than 25 percent
responded correctly to statements about the grades.
Why all the confusion? For starters, olive oil is among the top food items on your supermarket shelf that’s likely to be
bogus.
Among the adulterants found in extra virgin olive oil, for example:
cheaper ingredients like hazelnut oil, sunflower oil, refined olive oil,
palm oil, or peanut oil.
Moreover,
studies
suggest U.S. consumers often pay premium prices for European olive oil
labeled as “extra virgin” when they’re really buying a lower quality
oil.
So it’s little wonder that, for many people, buying olive oil is like
buying yogurt or cold medicine. You’re confronted with a dizzying array
of choices, labels and claims. Here’s a primer.
Extra virgin olive oil: The top grade, delivering
the best taste and the full health benefits of olive oil. It has zero
defects. Think of it as freshly pressed fruit juice. (Yes, olives are a
fruit.) The olives are crushed at a mill and the oil is extracted via
mechanical means – versus refined oil extracted through the use of heat
or chemicals. In our case, we crush our olives and run the resulting
paste through a centrifuge to separate the oil from the water and
sediment.
Extra virgin is the priciest grade. And, to be truly extra virgin,
the oil must pass a battery of chemical requirements (such as free fatty
acid percent and peroxide levels) set by the Madrid-based
International Olive Council (IOC), the
California Olive Oil Council (COOC),
Australian Olive Association
(AOA), and other bodies. We adhere to the COOC and AOA standards as
well as our own internal standards that we have set for ourselves to be
more rigorous than others. In addition to the chemical tests, true extra
virgin olive oil must pass a panel of professional tasters who detect
positive attributes like olive fruitiness; the tasters must not find any
taste flaws. In short, the oil must taste like olives and be of the
freshest quality.
First Cold Press: An outdated, vague term used
mainly for marketing purposes. It’s not a required standard. It really
just means the oil underwent one phase of “separation” from the olives
at the mill – versus repeated separations – and no heat was involved in
extracting the oil from the olives. So why do we put “First Cold Press”
on our bottles? Because so many people ask us whether our oil is first
cold pressed. For us, the term means the fruit of the olive was crushed
just once – i.e., the “first press.”
Pure Olive Oil/Olive Oil: Oil that’s been refined to remove any defects. It’s typically blended with a little extra virgin olive oil to add flavor.
Light Olive Oil: Not a diet product. It’s basically
the same as “pure” olive oil. It’s really light in flavor or color – not
calories or fat. In short, the term “light” has absolutely nothing to
do with the quality or health benefits of the oil.
Pomace Olive Oil: Oil extracted from the olive
pomace – the solid waste left over from the milling process. It includes
olive pits, skin and flesh. The oil is obtained by re-milling the
pomace to obtain the remaining 1 percent to 5 percent of oil that’s left
in the waste. It also can be obtained by mixing solvents into the
pomace; heat is then used to extract additional oil from the pomace.
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